View Full Version : I need help in buying a new car?
1stBuzie 06-02-2006, 01:21 PM I am planning to buy a "new" car this month. Here are my options.1) Acura TL2) Acura TSX3) BMW 335i4) BMW 328iWhich one do you think is the best option? In terms of budget, I researched the price of each, and I think I can afford it. Also, I have an old car - which I don't plan on trading.Is it cheaper to buy a car in NJ, PA or someplace else (within drivable distance - I live in NJ)? Are sales people in PA a lot nicer than in NJ (i.e. are they gullible)?How about the APR/Interest Rates? How much does it usually cost? 2%, 4%,etc? Is it negotiable? Lease terms - can I go greater than 60 months? say, 72 months or more? Usually, dealers have MSRP, can I negotiate a price lower than the MSRP?What is an "invoice price" and MSRP?What are the things I need to take into consideration while in the dealer (warranties, etc)? I know they are going to sell a lot more nuisance than I actually need - any idea what are those?Thanks for all your help! =)Also, In terms of negotiating the right price - things I need to take into consideration?Yep, this is my first time to buy a new car at all. =)EDIT: ***Lease*** Terms - can I go greater than 60 months? say, 72 months or more? - I meant, Finance Terms... Sorry for the confusion.Where can I find the invoice price for a car?
sunshinembf 06-05-2006, 09:34 AM www.carbuyingtips.comSpend 30 minutes reading and you will never get ripped off when buying a car...It really depends on which car you like the most I think. I personally don't think BMW's are worth it (due to the high repair costs after the free maintenance is over). I like Nissan/Infiniti's personally
zyberianwarrior2960 06-08-2006, 05:47 AM If you're asking these types of questions you can't afford a luxury vehicle. Get real.
pearl_hoff 06-11-2006, 02:01 AM You should get a BMW 335i.
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meandonlyme8122 06-16-2006, 06:27 PM As far as which car to buy, that is a decision you will have to make. I would check things like Consumer Reports to see which have been the most maintenance free. With the interest rates, this all depends on you credit report. If you have really good credit, you should be able to get a better interest rate. It is also good to check with a local credit union or bank to see what their interests rates would be before you take the financing from the dealership. Most dealerships are allowed to increase your interest rates up to 2%. This means if you were approved at 5%, they could charge you 7%. The extra 2% goes to the dealership.If you are going to go 60 to 72 months on a contract, then it is usually better to purchase instead of leasing. Leases are best for those who trade every 3 years anyway. Invoice price is the price the dealer has to pay for the vehicle and MSRP is the price the consumer has to pay. On most vehicles, you should pay less than MSRP if you don't have a trade. I would ask to see the invoice and offer $500 over invoice. I wouldn't go any higher than $1,000 over invoice. Although there are some high performance or specialty cars that you will end up paying more than MSRP.As far as the extras go. The finance person will try to sell you many different things. The most common ones are an extended warranty and gap insurance. Depending on the car and the price, an extended warranty can be a good thing, especially the power train warranty. Gap insurance is also a good idea. As you know, as soon as you drive the car off the lot, it will drop in value. If you get in an accident where the car is a total loss, the gap insurance will pay the difference between what you owe on the car and what it is actually worth. As you know, most cars depreciate in value and for the first 2-3 years of a 5-6 year loan, you owe more on the car than it is actually worth. So, gap insurance can save you some money.I hope this will help a little. Just be informed and don't be pressured into anything you don't feel comfortable with doing.
Kitoth 06-19-2006, 02:40 PM You've never bought a new car have you? All of those cars are great luxury sports sedans. I don't think you could go wrong with any of them. Buy the car in the jurisdiction that has the lowest sales taxes. On a $35,000 purchase 1 or 2 % difference in sales tax can mean a lot in terms of added costs. There is no such thing as a gullible car salesman. They are a lot smarter than you are. They know their business and they have the upper hand in any and all negotiations. Interest rates are based on your credit score and credit worthiness. Secure your financing through an independent service before walking into the dealership. Don't let the dealer finance you. It's just another way for him to make a profit off of you.Leasing a car for 60 or 72 months is just a stupid idea. Forget it. Leasing is a short term financial decision not a long term one. If you are going to keep a car for 72 months you need to buy the car, not lease it. Leases generally go for 24 to 36 months. Car leases are notoriously bad financial transactions. Avoid car leases. If you can't afford to purchase the car using a traditional loan, you are looking at a car that is too expensive to own.You can and should negotiate for less than MSRP. MSRP is the highest point on the price scale. You want to pay close to or under Invoice. MSRP is Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price. It represents the most the dealer can charge for that car unless they add aftermarket premiums to the car. Invoice is the price that the dealer pays for the car. Of course there are several hold back and incentive programs that reduce this cost for the dealer that you never see but on paper the invoice cost represents what the dealer pays for the car.Forget extended warranties. The manufacturers warranty is all you need. Any item the dealer tries to add to the price, forget it. All they do is represent profit for the dealership and are not things you need to have. Any accessories, added options, warranties, paint protectors and fabric conditioners are all pure profit for the dealer. Don't discuss them, reject them all, tell them you are uninterested and don't buy any of them. Any additional charges added to the price after the manufacturers price on the window sticker is pure profit. They call these addendum stickers "Sucker Stickers" for a reason. Because if you agree to purchase these items you are a sucker. Make them give them to you free or ask them to be removed from the car. Or find a car without a sucker sticker.
Wooden_Mammoth 06-22-2006, 10:54 AM Hiwell you can also get really good cheap cars from auctions , you will find thousands of different auction and repo cars of all kinds of models really cheap at http://www.carauctiondeals.comHope this helps
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